• Actualizado el 19/09/12
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    Alexander McQueen(Londres, 1969 - 2010)

    Durante su época como director creativo
    de Givenchy, Karl Lagerfeld comparó una
    vez a Alexander McQueen con el
    controvertido artista Damien Hirst. De
    hecho, el espíritu independiente de
    McQueen y la potente carga poética de sus
    creaciones eran más propias de un artista
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    Los espectáculos que creaba para
    presentar sus colecciones se asemejaban
    más a performances artísticas, capaces
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    moda convencionales. Algunos de los
    momentos más inolvidables de sus
    impresionantes desfiles incluyen a Shalom
    Harlow siendo pintada por una máquina
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    las modelos haciendo de piezas (2005), y a
    Kate Moss en forma de holograma (2006).

    En 1996, después de graduarse en la
    londinense Central Saint Martins y de
    ganar su primer premio al diseñador
    británico del año, McQueen fue elegido
    para tomar el relevo a John Galliano en
    Givenchy. Su paso por la firma francesa
    generó mucha controversia; era evidente
    que McQueen clamaba por dar rienda suelta
    a su creatividad bajo su propia marca, en
    la que no tuviera que seguir ninguna pauta
    estética previamente establecida por otro
    diseñador.

    La historia de Inglaterra y Escocia, el
    mundo animal y la muerte eran algunos de
    los conceptos sobre los cuales solía
    girar la ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

    obra del diseñador británico. La
    encargada de continuar con la firma es
    Sarah Burton, antigua ayudante de McQueen,
    quien está desempeñando con éxito la
    difícil tarea de mantener viva la esencia
    de la marca. En 2011, Burton ganó el
    premio a la mejor diseñadora del año en
    los British Fashion Awards. ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

  • Actualizado el 19/09/12
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    Karl Lagerfeld (Hamburgo, 1933)

    "No quiero convertirme en mi propio
    souvenir, ni ser un símbolo de los 60. No
    pertenezco a ninguna generación, no soy
    parte de ningún grupo. Estoy 'flotando',
    y gracias a ello puedo sobrevivir."

    Con 78 años, Karl Lagerfeld, es el
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    Sin embargo, su vitalidad y mentalidad
    podría ser la de alguien mucho más
    joven: detesta la nostalgia, y su conocido
    afán por ser moderno y estar siempre a la
    última ha hecho de Chanel -firma de la
    que es director creativo desde 1983- una
    de las marcas que más entusiasma al
    público joven y amante de las nuevas
    tendencias.

    Intelectualmente inquieto e hiperactivo,
    las actividades del kaiser no se limitan
    al mundo de la moda: además de sus
    colecciones para Chanel
    (prêt-à-porter y alta
    costura) y Fendi, es fotógrafo,
    ilustrador, propietario de una librería
    en París y coleccionista de libros.
    También ha colaborado con numerosas
    marcas, como Coca Cola, Sephora, Magnum,
    H&M, Volkswagen... Una de sus últimas
    colaboraciones ha sido para la tienda de
    moda online Net-a-porter, para la que ha
    creado una series de piezas inspiradas en
    parte en su propio look.

    La colección Crucero de Chanel para 2013
    fue presentada en el Palacio de Versalles,
    y presentaba diseños inspirados en la
    vestimenta de ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

    la corte francesa antes de la Revolución.
    "Versalles en la Francia socialista",
    ironizaba Lagerfeld tras el desfile. ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

  • Actualizado el 19/09/12
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    Nicolas Ghesquière (1971, Comines)

    "Con mis diseños e ideas, quiero
    satisfacerme primero a mí. Siempre estoy
    muy estresado a la hora de crear algo
    nuevo cada temporada. Pero, en cierta
    forma, es un tipo de adicción."

    Nicolas es uno de los diseñadores más
    influyentes y exitosos de la moda actual.
    Un dato anecdótico corrobora la
    relevancia del trabajo de diseñador
    francés y, por extensión, del mundo de
    la moda en las tendencias urbanas: la moda
    de los pañuelos palestinos de hace unos
    años tuvo su origen en una colección
    para Balenciaga , inspirada en el
    multiculturalismo.
    No es de extrañar que, en el año 2006,
    el New York Times lo calificara como "el

    diseñador más importante de su
    generación". La infancia de
    Guesquière se parece a la de muchos
    otros diseñadores de moda: criado en un
    pueblo pequeño, el joven Nicolas se
    entretenía garabateando vestidos en sus
    cuadernos de clase. A principios de los
    90, consiguió un trabajo como asistente
    de Jean Paul Gaultier.

    En 1997, con 26 años, fue elegido
    director creativo nada menos que de la
    casa Balenciaga, fundada por el mítico
    costurero español Cristóbal Balenciaga.
    Pese a que por aquel entonces era
    desconocido, su estilo, preciso y
    arquitectónico, encajaba a la perfección
    con el espíritu de las creaciones del
    maestro vasco.
    En el ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

    año 2001, Guesquière lanzó el
    bolso Motorcycle, que se ha convertido en
    uno de los bolsos de lujo más vendidos de
    los últimos años. La precolección de la
    firma para 2013 tiene como protagonista
    unos bocetos que Balenciaga dibujó para
    el vestuario de un ballet en los años 30. ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

  • Actualizado el 19/09/12
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    Riccardo Tisci (1974, Taranto)

    "Me gusta el negro, me gusta el
    blanco. No me gusta lo que está en medio.
    Y la pasarela es el lugar donde intento
    transmitir esto."

    Riccardo se graduó en la famosa escuela
    Central Saint Martins en 1999. En 2005 fue
    elegido director artístico de la clásica
    firma Givenchy , fundada por Hubert de
    Givenchy en 1952. Tisci sucedió a Julien
    McDonald, quien a su vez había tomado el
    relevo a Alexander McQueen.

    Tisci, quien se encarga de diseñar las
    colecciones de moda de hombre y de mujer,
    así como la colección de Alta Costura,
    parece haber continuado con el estilo
    oscuro y conceptual del desaparecido

    McQueen: las creaciones del diseñador
    italiano son, con frecuencia, oscuras,
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    de sus colecciones), llenas de
    contraposiciones binarias del tipo
    blanco/negro, agresividad/romanticismo,
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    Podría decirse que el diseñador ha
    ayudado a crear una nueva identidad para
    Givenchy. La firma antes se asociaba a las
    estrellas de Hollywood y al maravilloso y
    sencillo vestido negro de Audrey Hepburn
    en Desayuno con diamantes; ahora, Givenchy
    es una marca cool y arriesgada que
    presenta sus colecciones de Alta Costura
    en gimnasios, con las modelos luciendo
    exagerados piercings en la nariz, y que
    encarna un concepto moderno de la
    elegancia. ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

  • Actualizado el 19/09/12
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    Christophe Decarnin (1964, Le Touquet)

    "La ropa debería reflejar la personalidad
    de una persona, no sustituirla".

    Resulta difícil pensar en otra firma que
    pueda permitirse vender chaquetas de cuero
    con tachuelas por la nada desdeñable
    cifra de diez mil euros cada una.
    Christophe Decarnin es el responsable de
    que Balmain se haya convertido en aquello
    a lo que aspiran todas las marcas de moda:
    ser sinónimo de lo cool y crear
    auténticos objetos de deseo para miles de
    jóvenes aficionados al diseño más
    vanguardista.

    Decarnin estudió en la parisina ESMOD, la
    primera escuela de moda de Francia. En el
    año 2006, después de haber estado siete

    años al frente de Paco Rabanne, se
    convirtió en el nuevo director creativo
    de la casa Balmain, fundada en 1945.
    Aunque los diseños de Pierre Balmain se
    caracterizaban por su estilo ultrafemenino
    y sofisticado, Decarnin optó por tomar a
    David Bowie y los Sex Pistols como
    inspiración, creando una nueva estética
    con un marcado espíritu rock & roll.
    Los botines, chaquetas de cuero,
    pantalones pitillo, minivestidos
    lujosamente bordados y sencillos tops de
    algodón de Decarnin definieron el nuevo
    uniforme cool y urbano venerado por, entre
    otras, Kate Moss y Emmanuelle Alt, la
    actual directora de Vogue París.

    Sin embargo, pese al éxito de sus
    colecciones, al parecer el diseñador no
    pudo sobrellevar ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

    la presión que implica su profesión, por
    lo que dejó la firma francesa a mediados
    de 2011. El nuevo director creativo de
    Balmain es Oliver Rousteing, ayudante de
    Decarnin, que continúa con el estilo
    rockero que impuso su antecesor. ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

  • Actualizado el 19/09/12
    0 Likes 0 Comentarios

    Alber Elbaz (Casablanca, 1961)

    "No creo que 'comercial' sea una
    palabra negativa. Puede que sea la esencia
    del diseño, ya que el diseño, además de
    ser un arte, consiste en crear objetos que
    puedan usarse".

    Alber Elbaz estudió en el Shenkar College
    of Engineering and Design de Israel. De
    padre israelí y madre española, viajó a
    Nueva York a finales de los 80 para
    trabajar con Geoffrey Beene, quien
    ejercería una importante influencia en el
    por entonces joven diseñador.

    En 1998, después de una breve carrera en
    Guy Laroche, fue elegido para sustituir
    nada menos que a Yves Saint Laurent en
    Rive Gauche, su línea femenina de

    prêt-à-porter. Aunque su
    estancia en Yves Saint Laurent apenas
    duró dos años (en el año 2000, la firma
    fue adquirida por el Grupo Gucci, quien
    prefirió situar a Tom Ford al frente de
    la mítica casa francesa), Elbaz
    finalmente encontraría estabilidad
    profesional como director creativo de
    Lanvin
    .

    Jeanne Lanvin fundó Lanvin -la firma de
    moda en activo más antigua del mundo- en
    1909. Cuando Elbaz pasó a ser su
    diseñador, en el año 2001, fue capaz de
    revitalizar la marca, adaptando su aire
    elegante y femenino al nuevo milenio.

    La actriz Natalie Portman, amiga de Elbaz
    -con quien comparte procedencia israelí-,
    es una de ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

    las famosas que han proporcionado gran
    publicidad a la firma. Para la gala de los
    Globos de Oro de 2012, Portman eligió un
    vestido de Lanvin de un vibrante color
    fucsia. El magistral uso del color es una
    de las señas de identidad de Alber Elbaz. ... Volver - Leer más - Ampliar información

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    Miuccia Prada (Milán - 1949)

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  • Actualizado el 19/09/12
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    Marc Jacobs (Nueva York, 1963)

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  • Actualizado el 19/09/12
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    Gareth Pugh (Sunderland, 1981)

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  • Actualizado el 19/09/12
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  • Actualizado el 19/09/12
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    Jean Paul Gaultier (1952, Arcueil,
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